Verbal shorthand used by cooks and chefs

THE EATING HOUSES

From the New York Herald, August 10, 1845, column 5

The Eating Houses – One great source of convenience and accommodation to strangers visiting New York, are eating houses, which are now scattered about the city. At any time of the day a meal, chosen from a great variety, can be obtained without delay, and a little expense. These houses are usually well furnished with marble tables, polite and attentive waiters, who are flying about in all directions giving orders, which to the uninitiated, sound more unintelligible than Greek or Dutch.
For instance, the waiter calls out to the cutter and carver for “plum, wine,”– while another cries out at the top of his voice for “dumplings on a large – suet without” – or “rice, hard”– mingled with the phrases “veal cul’et” – “clam pie” and “roast beef” cutting and crossing each other, so that the visitor is lost in wonder, that the person receiving the orders does not go mad, and abdicate.

DINER SLANG

Diner slang has been around a long time. In 1852, a newspaper in Detroit printed some examples, and by the 1870s, black waiters made it popular. After World War II, soda jerks – another term that later crossed over into popular use – and drive-in waitresses added more terms.

A HISTORY OF THE DINER

The term lunch counter was first recorded in 1869 in the United States, and became known as a luncheonette in the 1930s. Many terms were launched from local and ethnic roots that might be considered politically incorrect these days, and others are linked to their digestive reaction. Some waiter/cook shorthand has become a standard part of our language, such as mayo, BLT, and stack (of pancakes).

DECIPHERING THE LINGO

You might want to learn a little diner lingo in case you have the occasion to check out one of the old mom and pop hash houses or newer retro diners, so you can have a little fun with your waiter/waitress. Some of these definitions are sure to bring a smile, if not to stir memories. Mick Cunningham on the brilliant language of American diners...
“We love of American diners and there are 4,205,986 ways of describing eggs and toast. Some of their rich waiter/cook lingo has even drifted into mainstream English, such as mayo and BLT. But a lot of it hasn't.  You can still come across some of this older lingo in various Luncheonette and Soda Shoppes in smaller towns across the US., and an occasional new retro diner.”

THE INFLUENCE OF EATERY LINGO ON DINING OUT

By John Clarke - April 2003
Chances are you begin the day with a “mug of murk”, some “elephant dandruff,” or even “two dots and a dash,” in otherwords: a cup of coffee, a bowl of corn flakes, and two fried eggs with a strip of bacon. Although mostly unfamiliar today, the serving of classic American breakfast lingo is still impressive for its inventive spirit.
The “quick bite” meal and the eatery slang, which followed it, were created in response to a growing need to get the food to the customer, fast. It has been with us since the 1840s, and by the turn of the century, ice cream sodas and hot dogs charmed their way into our hearts, in cleverly coded catchwords, were already hard at work.
You sat at the counter and eyeballed the menu.  An age-old question greeted you from the other side, “So, what’ll be?” You placed your order and heard a shout, “Wax a high hat on a cable car, go heavy on the barn paint and carnations!” Just like that, this “Call” got you an open-faced cheeseburger, smothered in ketchup and onions– pronto.
For these “slingers,” short order short-hand was a valuable showpiece. During the 1930s talented jargon jockeys got work wherever they went because they brought in steady customers and kept everything in a “grab joint” moving.  Shorter slang was good for business.
Today, when you order your eggs “over easy” or ask for a “burger with the works” in a diner, you’re using enduring examples of this smart and sassy jargon that was routinely dished out all over across the country.
Unfortunately, the heyday of slang over-the-counter has slipped away. But this witty, irreverent jargon deserves to be relished once again.